Career in Fashion: VOLUNTEERING

The Devil Wears Prada

Are you considering pursuing a career in the fashion industry? Would you like to work among respected designers? Would you like to work in a field that you are genuinely interested in? When starting a career in fashion you have to know that you will most likely have to start at the bottom, where the salary is close to nothing. But that's not a problem! Volunteering is a great opportunity to learn more about the industry, gain work experience and meet interesting people. The best way to start out is through volunteering. There are many different roles to fill, so start looking! It's not difficult to find something, just do some research online. Some websites that I recommend are The Business of Fashion, Fashion United, Fashion Jobs and Fashion Workie (for UK). There is no need to worry about there being a language barrier if you are living in a country away from home, some of the placements only require English. All of my volunteering positions I had whilst living in Paris were in English. It's important that you do a good job and are a good coworker as you may be offered to work with them again or you might get a recommendation.

Showroom Assistant

This job position most commonly takes place during Fashion Week (but not only) and is a short time thing, usually lasts just a few days, but those days are long! In my experience it was 10 hours everyday for almost a week. Main tasks include helping to set-up and take down the showroom, welcoming clients and making drinks, keeping the showroom tidy and putting items away and assisting the models. It's a good experience for people who are interested in careers in buying and merchandising. Although you most likely will not be talking with the clients, you can see from up close what it looks like dealing with buyers, how meetings look and how the products that are later present in boutiques and department stores are being selected and ordered. I know it sounds like fun, but it's not as good as it seems. Apart from the tasks I mentioned before you might be expected to run errands such as: collecting food orders from all the employees and then going around town to pick them up, being sent to an electronics store to buy a new music player, because the old one stopped working, carrying heavy things from one place to another and ordering taxis for the clients. Perks of this position, apart from adding it to your CV, are that you get to see the brands collection months before the products make it to stores!

Sophia Webster Showroom (Jan 2016)

Sophia Webster Showroom (Jan 2016)

Sophia Webster Showroom (Jan 2016)

Trade Show Assistant

A trade show is like a collection of showrooms under one roof. Here you're being hired by the organisers of the event so you're not working for any of the fashion brands. Your responsibilities include: setting up and taking down the venue, registration of the buyers and exhibitors and assisting them on the floor of the showroom. There are usually quite a lot of interns working here so you're not even required to work all the time. You get to see important people in the fashion industry like buyers from big department stores in New York and occasionally a celebrity will make an unexpected appearance (Kanye!). You have to be communicative and patient as you will be dealing with clients - there's always something wrong, whether it's that someone forgot to register at home and has to do it there, or the internet or air con isn't working. Be friendly with the exhibitors and you might be able to buy their products at wholesale price! If you're a good worker they might consider hiring you again. One of my friends was invited to work with them again, but this time in Las Vegas!

Capsule Show (phot. @CapsuleShow)

Capsule Show, Paris 2015

Capsule Show, Paris 2015

Backstage Dresser

Out of all my volunteering experience this one was the best! I had to be at the venue at 5am to start setting everything up and preparing the space, but it was all over after a few hours and I made it in time to get to my class at uni. The main function of this job is to dress and undress the models during the runway show. It's a fast paced environment, you legitimately have under a minute to undress the model, take her shoes off (in my case they were tight strappy sandals), help her put on the next garment without ruining her makeup and then squeeze her feet back into the shoes. Most of the models were nice, but my poor friend had the privilege to work with a real diva. People who come to fashion shows are either working in the industry or in media and press, so it's a good place to see interesting faces, and it's cool that you get to meet and talk with the designer. If you're interested in working in the future in planning fashion events or as a designer then this job placement is for you! Oh and you might be leaving with a goody bag!

Backstage at Peet Dullaert SS 2015

Backstage at Peet Dullaert SS 2015

Backstage at Peet Dullaert SS 2015

Fashion Icon: YVES SAINT LAURENT

Yves Saint Laurent

Algerian born Yves Saint Laurent began his success in the fashion industry at the age of 21 when he succeeded Christian Dior in 1957 as head designer at Dior. He was quickly recognised and appreciated for his talent, specifically the Trapeze Dress from his Spring 1958 collection. After a few seasons, of success and hard press critique, he had to join the French Army to serve during the Algerian War of Independence. Soon he found out that he had been replaced at Dior, which caused much stress which influenced his later drug and mental issues.

The Trapeze Dress

Together with Pierre Berge they founded the Yves Saint Laurent brand in 1961. This was his time to shine, he created many iconic looks during this time including: 

• The Mondrian Dress - from 1965, its success can be accredited to the timelessness of the garment. It was fabulous, bold and accessory friendly. Its design concept was definitely 'out of the box' with its use of art in clothing.
  "For me what is important is (...) the Mondrian Dress because it is an iconic dress." - Pierre Berge
  "The Mondrian Dress is synonymous with youth and fun swinging '60s. It is one of the best known projects in the history of fashion." - Kerry Taylor of London-based Kerry Taylor Auctions

The Mondrian Dress

The Mondrian Dress // French Vogue September 1965

• Le Smoking - from 1966, it consisted of a classic dinner jacket in black grain de poudre wool, or satin, and trousers with a satin side-stripe with a ruffled white shirt, black bow tie and a wide cummerbund of satin. It represented hollywood glamour; it was a Red Carpet androgynous look associated with Marlene Dietrich. It symbolised confidence and female sexual empowerment. Its popularity is linked with it being a fashion scandal and the way it revolutionised the way women dressed.
  "The thing about a tuxedo is that it is virile and feminine at the same time, I don't remember my first one - I think it was in the early 1980s when the picture was taken - double-breasted and very severe. It really does make you feel different as a woman, it changes the gestures." - Catherine Deneuve
  "For a woman, Le Smoking is an indispensable garment with which she'll always be in fashion, because it's all about style, not fashion. Fashions come and go, but style is forever." - Yves Saint Laurent
  "I like Le Smoking, because that was the moment when Yves empowered women." - Pierre Berge
  
  

  

  
  

  Le Smoking, phot. Helmut Newton

  
  

  

  
  

  Catherine Deneuve in Le Smoking
• The Safari Jacket - from 1967 offered a 'military' and heroic feel and was a romantic view of the Hollywood voyage trend ("Mogambo").
  
  "Short, sexy, worn with a belt with a ring-shaped buckle, it embodied the manifesto of liberty that was shaking up wardrobes." - Virginie Mouza of Le Figaro
  "Saint Laurent (...) is constantly playing with culture and identity - you might say he was "on safari" for new species of dress he could translate or transfigure." - Laura Jacobs of wsj.com
  
  
  

  

  
  

  Veruschka in the Safari Jacket

  
  

  

  
  

  The Safari Jacket
• The See-through Blouse - from 1968 was incredibly scandalous and controversial for its time - it was a shock factor. The garment offered a "nudity without nudity" look and epitomised the attitude that anything goes.
  
  "Then he did the famous See-through Blouse in clear silk chiffon. The audience literally took a mass in-take of breath - as if we'd been watching a firework display" - Paul Smith
  "There has been a new trend in fashion. It is young and aims more to attractiveness than elegance." "I suddenly became conscious of the feminine body. I started to have a dialog with women and became aware of what it meant to be a modern woman." - Yves Saint Laurent
  
  

  

  
  

  The See-Through Blouse

  
  

  

  
  

  The See-Through Dress
• The Green Fox Fur Coat - from 1971was part of a 40s inspired collection. The coat represented glam rock and was over the top. It was an anti hippie movement and gave an end to the swinging 60s. Its controversy was caused by its association with prostitutes, it also glamourised WWII.
  
  "His bright green Fox Fur Coat from that collection is something a prostitute would have worn in 1943 in order to pick up a German soldier during the Occupation." - Morgan Meis

The Green Fox Fur Coat

Naomi Campbell // YSL Haute Couture SS 2002

"Yves was first with everything and has inspired practically everybody." - Vogue

Exhibition Must See: YAYOI KUSAMA

Yayoi Kusama, phot. Noriko Takasugi

In case any of you are staying in London now, or plan to be there any time soon, make sure to drop by Victoria Miro and check out the works of Yayoi Kusama. According to the gallery's website the exhibition will be running until July 30th, so hurry down there and don't miss it! There are three "Infinity Rooms" - from the outside they look like large boxes, but on the inside they're magical - the interiors are filled with either Kusama's legendary Pumpkins or light installations and the walls are covered with mirrors, which gives a one of a kind continuous effect. But beware: you only get 45 seconds in the room, so prepare your phone camera before you get in so you can take an infinity mirror selfie and record the incredible interior for your friends to see on Snapchat.

Victoria Miro

16 Wharf Road, London N1 7RW

No tickets required

Tue-Sat 10am-6pm

'Chandelier of Grief'

'All the Eternal Love I have for the Pumpkins'

'All the Eternal Love I have for the Pumpkins'

For those of you who aren't especially familiar with the artist:

Yayoi Kusama is a Japanese writer and artist. Her works often involve repetition and vibrant colours. She herself was her own signature, as a way to 'sign' her works she would be present in the frame when her artworks were being photographed. She is known as the Princess of Polka Dots and was named one of Time's 100 most influential people.

In 2012 Kusama collaborated with Louis Vuitton; the collection included a PVC trenchcoat and a low waisted yellow dress with matching accessories. Out of respect to the artist all the models, which are posing in front of a polka dot background, are styled like her with the typical hairstyle associated with her. At the time LV stores around the world, and their window displays, were decorated with polka dots.

Yayoi x Louis Vuitton

Yayoi x Louis Vuitton

Yayoi x Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton store in Paris

Louis Vuitton store in Hong Kong

Louis Vuitton store in New York

Louis Vuitton store in New York

Photos from campaign vogue.co.uk ; photos from window displays australiandesignreview.com

Dior: timing Eau so Sauvage

I started writing this post mid-June when an inappropriate ad showed up. I was staying in Paris and Father's Day was approaching so all the Men's fragrance ads came up. While walking to the metro I stumbled upon the Dior Sauvage ad in the form of a rotating poster. I was shocked to see it since just the other day I was reading about the ongoing Depp/Heard case. I understand that advertisements are planned months in advance, but the timing, the name and the ambassador choice for the brands fragrance were untimely! 'Sauvage', coming from French which translates to savage (brutal, wild), was an innocent product name until now when Johnny Depp is being accused of domestic violence.

Well, I haven't been immune to the infamous case, as my favourite gossip site keeps me updated. After reading about who accused whom of what I went to my favourite part - the comments section (as I always do) - to see what real people actually think of the situation. I was shocked to see how people without having any proof, or actually knowing the whole truth, quickly chose sides. Surprise surprise, about 90% were either protecting Johnny or trashing Amber, and only 10% actually stood up for her and believed that there was a chance that she was telling the truth. When on Facebook, I saw one of my friends liked this article by The Huffington Post called "We Have to Stop Protecting Famous Men", so I chose to investigate it. It's a good read, I definitely recommend it as the author doesn't take sides in this particular case, but explains how we as observers regard such situations.

The ads in Paris didn't stay up for long - I guess I wasn't the only person who found it extremely inappropriate, offensive and immoral. What bothers me however is that I still see the Dior Sauvage ad, not on big billboards anymore, but in departments stores around Europe in the makeup and fragrance sections. I personally believe that out of respect to victims of domestic violence the brand should either take the ads down or replace them with a campaign starring a new ambassador.

 All I can say is that the timing of it is very poor, very Sauvage. 

Fall 2016 Couture // ATELIER VERSACE

Donatella Versace

Hey Ladies, according to Atelier Versace it's time to let those shoulders out. Whether it's an asymmetrical neckline or cutouts Donatella approves!

She also came up with a chic new way to clean up. If you ever find yourself in a hurry to leave to a fancy gala (or red carpet event) and you haven't neatened up yet, may I suggest you go with the maxi dragging skirt. Not only will you sweep the floor, but you'll also sweep everyone off their feet!

Bianca Jagger 70s // Atelier Versace Look 1

Saint Laurent FW 2015 // Atelier Versace Look 5

Princess Diana's Wedding Dress // Atelier Versace Look 10

Other asymmetrical one-shoulder looks from the past:

Grace Kelly

David Bowie 70s

Princess Diana in Versace, 1996

SJP as Carrie Bradshaw in "Sex and the City" 

Best looks from the show:

Look 6

Look 23

Look 2

Runway photos from vogue.com